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Harvest Recipes

Overhead & Underfoot

by Jane Worthington-Roth

In the Berkshires every season has its own wonderful glory but autumn is, without doubt, my favorite time of year. The trees are breathtakingly beautiful and, despite the nip in the air, the colors make it seem warm and cozy.

Our eating habits usually change in the fall. We are less apt to head outside to grill and begin thinking more about “comfort food”. Luckily there are a lot of great seasonal options, both from overhead and underfoot. Every farmers market and roadside stand is bursting with loads of apples, root vegetables and many varieties of squash. Because of the abundance in the Berkshires the prices are affordable, even for many organic options.

Here are some of my favorite seasonal favorites – quick and easy-to-make, delicious for tonight’s supper or to stow away for a taste of autumn at a later time.

Dropping from the Sky…

Applesauce

On our property we have three old apples trees of questionable parentage. We assume that they are “macoun” from the shape and flavor, but the actual variety is anyone’s guess. Nonetheless, every year my husband gathers the best “drops” by the bucketful and we make the most delicious applesauce. Once you taste your own homemade applesauce I doubt you’ll ever want to buy a jar of commercially made applesauce again.

My recipe is simple. You can use any single type of apple or any combination of apples you like (I’ve listed the best apples below*). Regardless of whether you gather your own apples or purchase apples, wash them thoroughly to remove any dirt or pesticide residue, as I cook the entire apples to make the sauce.

After rinsing the apples thoroughly, cut into quarters. For this recipe, it isn’t necessary to core or peel the apples. Place the cut apples into a pot with a little water (I use about ½ cup water in a 6-quart pot of apples). Cover, and simmer the apples on very low heat, stirring periodically and pushing down on the apples with a spoon or potato masher to ensure even heat distribution without scorching the apples. If necessary, add a little more water to prevent burning. The apples are done cooking in about 20-30 minutes, when they are all soft.

Remove the cover to let the apples cool down then process them through a food mill (or Mouli) to remove all peels, stems and seeds. Depending of the type of apples you use, you may end up with a beautifully naturally pink-hued applesauce. You can use the applesauce immediately, or let it cool down to room temperature then pack into quart-size food-storage bags and freeze. I never add sugar or cinnamon to my applesauce any more than I would add sugar or cinnamon to an apple I was eating – but feel free to stir some in at the end if you’d like.

*These are considered some of the best apples for sauce but feel free to try out any other combinations you like: Braeburn, Cortland, Crispin (Mutsu), McIntosh, Fuji, Golden Delicious, Gravenstein, Liberty, Jonamac, Ida Red and Rome.

Apple Risotto

Another phenomenal way to showcase Berkshire’s best apples is to add them to a simple risotto. For this dish, don’t think “apple-rice-pudding” – this recipe is about the nice tang that a few apples add to the risotto. This dish is a great counterpoint to a roasted chicken or duckling. I like to serve it with a side of braised cippolini onions topped with a little balsamic vinegar, and a glass of hard apple cider. This wonderful combination highlights autumnal flavors at their best – looks very elegant – and is simple to make.

6 cups chicken, or vegetable, broth
¼ cup olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 cups risotto (Arborio) rice
2/3 cup dry white wine (or apple cider, or hard cider)
2 cups chopped Granny Smith apples (peeled & cored, tossed with a little lemon juice to prevent discoloration)
½ cup shredded or crumbled cheese (optional)
About 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley, for serving

  1. Put the broth in a saucepan and keep at a gentle simmer while you make the risotto.

  2. In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil and add the onion. Cook gently for about 10 minutes, until soft but not browned.

  3. Add the rice and stir until well-coated with the oil. Pour in the wine and simmer gently until most of the wine has evaporated. Add the chopped apple and stir to combine.

  4. Begin adding the broth, one ladle at a time, stirring gently until the broth has been mostly absorbed. Continue adding more broth, a ladle at a time, keeping the risotto at a gentle simmer, and stirring constantly to avoid sticking and to incorporate the broth throughout. Continue this process until the rice is tender and creamy - about 20 minutes.

  5. You can add your favorite cheese to accentuate the creaminess and flavor of the risotto. In this apple-laced version, cheddar, goat cheese or parmesan work well. Stir in another splash of white wine or apple cider just before serving. Top with chopped parsley.

Digging up Underfoot…

Apples aren’t the only seasonal specialty here in the Berkshires…. The markets are overflowing with an abundance of both familiar and exotic root vegetables and a wide-variety of winter squash. If you have the room, it’s worth stocking up with a nice supply to store through the winter in a root cellar. However, you don’t need a lot of autumn vegetables to enjoy this next recipe, just buy a few of your favorites – or use what you have left over in your fridge for a delicious side dish that showcases the colors, and flavors, of autumn in the Berkshires!

Berkshire Autumn Quinoa

3 cups (total) root vegetables or winter squash, cut into uniform ¼ inch cubes
1 cup red quinoa (carefully rinsed)
3 tablespoons golden raisins (you can substitute dried currants or dried cranberries)
2 tablespoons dried apricots, thinly-sliced
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Zest of 1 lemon, plus 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
¼ cup thinly sliced scallions or chives
3 tablespoons chopped walnuts (or your favorite nuts)
Olive oil, salt & pepper (for roasting)

  1. First roast your favorite root vegetables or winter squash. I like to use a combination of butternut squash, sweet potato, carrots and golden beets with a little red onion tossed in for flavor. Toss the cubes with a little olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and spread out on a foil-lined cookie sheet. Roast at 450° for about 20-25 minutes, until soft and lightly browned. Set aside to cool at room temperature.

  2. While the vegetables are roasting, cook 1 cup rinsed red quinoa in 2 cups water. Simmer for 10-15 minutes until done then drain. Spread the cooked quinoa on a foil-lined cookie sheet and let cool to room temperature.

  3. Soak the golden raisins and sliced dried apricots in hot water for 5 minutes to plump. Drain and set aside.

  4. Make the vinaigrette. Combine 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, the lemon zest and fresh lemon juice. Add ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Whisk, or shake, to combine well.

  5. Put the roasted vegetables in a large bowl. Add the quinoa and plumped raisins and apricots. Sprinkle the vinaigrette evenly over the mixture and stir gently to combine. Just before serving, stir in ¼ cup thinly sliced scallions or chives and 3 tablespoons walnuts. If you’re lucky, you may have some local black walnuts that have just been harvested, but feel free to use almonds, pine nuts or whatever you’d like to add a little crunch.

The combination of red quinoa and roasted vegetables mimics the fall colors of the beautiful sugar maples on display throughout the Berkshires this time of year!

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