Barley Risotto

With Asparagus and Peas

by LEON BOUTEILLER

It is true, barley does not a risotto make. Only rice can be a risotto. However any whole grain can be prepared in “risotto” style. I’ve recently used barley in place of other grains to see how it does in different recipes. I have grown to appreciate this grain.

Barley is a member of the grass family. It was one of the first grains to be cultivated, around 9,000 years ago in the Fertile Crescent where North Africa meets the Mediterranean. There is evidence of wild barley being part of the diet of prehistoric humans nearly 21,000 years ago.

Barley is high in fiber, vitamins and minerals including magnesium, phosphorus, vitamin B3 and copper. It is also high in protein. Much of that protein is gluten and therefore not useful for a gluten free diet. Barley is versatile, used in soups, stews, salads, porridges and breads. It is a major ingredient in brewing beer and making barley malt and whiskeys. Another benefit for glycemic issues is that it doesn’t spike the insulin response as quickly as rice or wheat.

There are several forms of barley available but most found in markets is pearl barley with outer hull and much of the bran removed. The whiter the barley, the more processed athough much fiber is still held within the grain. Dehulled barely still has most of the bran (due to minimal processing) but takes longer to cook. A good overnight soak in water will shorten the cooking time. Barley grits and barley flour are also relatively easy to find.

I like the chewy texture and also that it holds up even when over-cooked. In this recipe I use pearl barley. If I were making risotto with Arborio rice, I would begin the process in the pan with raw rice, add stock and wine progressively until the rice was fully cooked in about 20 minutes. In barley risotto this would be impractical for it might take as long as 45 minutes to complete. So it is beneficial to precook the barley to three quarters done on the stovetop or in an instant pot pressure cooker. As with Arborio rice, stirring the grain as it cooks helps to release some starch which makes the sauce-like consistency characteristic of risotto. This is why the barley is finished on the stovetop.

Thinking of Spring and the increasing availability of asparagus and peas, I think this an appropriate dish to welcome this long awaited season.

BARLEY RISOTTO with ASPARAGUS and PEAS
Makes 4 entrées or 6 appetizers

Ingredients:

1 cup pearl barley
2 ½ cups chicken or vegetable stock, divided
1 cup white wine, divided
12 ounces asparagus, washed and trimmed, cut on the diagonal into 1 inch pieces
1 cup shucked peas, fresh or frozen
½ cup minced onion
½ cups scallions sliced thin
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 ounces grated Parmesan cheese, or other hard grating cheese
4 tablespoons crème fraiche, or heavy cream
Salt and pepper

Method:

Precook barley on the stovetop or pressure cooker with 2 cups stock and 1/2 cup white wine and 1/2 teaspoon salt. 30 minutes for the stovetop, or 20 minutes in a pressure cooker
After the barley is cooked, heat a heavy bottomed saucepan over medium heat with the butter and the minced onion. Do not brown. Stir occasionally until the onion is translucent.
Add the precooked barley to the pan along with the asparagus and the peas. Then gradually add the remaining 1/2 cup of stock and white wine, a couple of tablespoons at a time, until all the liquid has been absorbed
Stir in the crème fraiche, grated cheese and the scallions. Season with salt and pepper
Serve with additional grated cheese on top if desired

This is a satisfying take on a risotto dish. Rich, hearty and suitable as an entree, an appetizer or as a side. Chopped snap peas could substitute for the shucked ones. Add-ins like shrimp, crab or smoked salmon are also welcome.

Enjoy!