Braised Pork

With Cider and Brandy

by LEON BOUTEILLER

The cold weather eludes us but seems to hint at a return. I appreciate the fine climate we’ve enjoyed this fall but want to make some braises that seem inappropriate. I seem stuck in warm weather food preparation.

However the apple harvest always makes me think how well apples and pork go together. Roast pork with apple sauce is a classic combination and often I toss a few apples in the oven alongside a pork rib roast to accompany a succulent roast with rosemary, garlic and onions. In the past the season had more impact on local harvesting and slaughtering, determined what foods were available. So it is easy to imagine that pork and apples were a natural pairing. The same could be said for some of the root vegetables.

This week a recipe for a braised pork dish that, after years of experimentation with different cuts of pork, I believe I found a balance of cooking time and rich flavors. The recipe calls for country style spare ribs or beef short ribs. They cook fairly quickly, good and tender with little bone. There is enough fat for a good braise and flavor. Rib chops can also work but I find their center too lean and too dry. A pork shoulder, cut into large chunks, is possible but I like the country ribs portion best for there is less fuss.

BRAISED PORK with CIDER and BRANDY
Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

  • 3 pounds country style spare ribs

  • 4 thick slices of smoky artisan bacon cut into one inch pieces

  • 1 large Spanish onion cut medium dice (about 2 cups)

  • 3 cloves garlic, crushed and chopped

  • ½ cup diced celery

  • ½ cup diced carrot

  • 1 ½ cups rich chicken stock

  • 1 cup apple cider

  • ½ cup brandy or applejack

  • 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

  • 2 tablespoons rubbed sage, or 2 teaspoons ground sage

  • 3 bay leaves

  • 2 teaspoons mustard seed

  • ½ teaspoon thyme

  • ½ teaspoon ginger

  • ½ teaspoon salt

  • ½ teaspoon black pepper

  • 1 large firm apple, peeled, cored and diced

  • 2 tablespoons neutral oil

  • Seasoned flour (1 cup AP flour, 1 tablespoon salt, 1 tablespoon black pepper)

Method:

  • Heat a large heavy bottom pot over medium heat and cook the bacon until it is crispy around the edges, not dry. Remove the bacon and drain on paper towels

  • Drain all but 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat and add in the 2 tablespoons of oil

  • Dredge the pork in the seasoned flour and brown on all sides

  • Remove the pork from the pot and set aside while assembling the braising liquid

  • Lightly brown the onion, celery and carrot. Then add the garlic

  • Add the thyme, sage, bay leaves, mustard seed, ginger, salt and pepper

  • Stir then add the cider, brandy, chicken stock and vinegar and bring to a simmer

  • Nestle the pork pieces into the hot liquid, cover the pot and turn the heat to low

  • Cook for 30 minutes. Turn the pork pieces over. Cover and cook another 20 minutes until fork tender

  • Remove the pork from the pot and keep warm

  • Toss in the diced apple and bacon. Then cook until the sauce attains your desired consistency

  • Remove bay leaves before serving

To serve:

  • Pour the sauce over the pork or serve the sauce on the side

I like to serve this dish with polenta, boiled potatoes or buttered noodles. Rice is also a good alternative. This is not a heavy dish but a leafy green salad with some bitter greens is good with a glass of cider, hard or not.

Enjoy!

Leon G Bouteiller was born and raised in Northwest Connecticut. He has held several jobs as chef in the community. He is now retired and living in Cornwall with his wife Patrice and a love of the outdoors. They are joined by their pets, a Greater Swiss Mountain Dog named Banjo and two rescue cats called Ricky and Lucy.

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