Bucatini & Bottarga

If you’ve never tried bottarga, you’re in for a treat! It’s an ancient delicacy, first documented in the Nile Delta in the 10th century BCE. Traditionally made from salted, cured grey mullet fish roe, it’s a common ingredient throughout the Mediterranean. Known as boutargue in France or poutargue in Provence, it’s usually served grated or shaved into thin slices. It’s even currently produced in Florida. Historical records from European settlers in the 1500’s noted that Native Americans along the west coast of Florida were consuming dried mullet roe.

My first introduction to bottarga came while we were travelling through the Lake Como region of Italy. We ate at our hotel the first night and I ordered an appetizer that included bottarga. I was intrigued because I had never heard of it before. My appetizer came in a small shallow bowl, a piece of crustless toast topped with a delicately poached egg, some chopped fresh tomatoes and shaved bottarga. In the evening light, I couldn’t quite discern what was on my plate. Before taking a bite, I had mistaken the shaved bottarga for thinly sliced carrots as it was a firm, bright orange. I called the waiter over asking where the bottarga was and he just laughed as he pointed it out. When I tasted it – I was hooked! It was a little chewy, lightly fishy and salty – and delicious. I ordered the same appetizer three more times while we were in the area.

I’ve seen classic Italian bottarga for sale online – a whole bottarga (dried mullet roe sack) costs about $15. This should easily be enough to serve 4 to 6 people with generous portions. What’s best is that the dried, cured bottarga can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a year even after its been opened as long as it is wrapped tightly in plastic. Bottarga is sometimes made from Atlantic bluefin tuna (bottarga di tonno rosso) or even yellowfin tuna. To serve it you simply have to peel off the beeswax coating. I prefer to slice it thinly with a potato peeler but you could also grate it with a microplane.

The simplest way to eat it is on bread that has been drizzled with a little olive oil and lemon juice but our favorite recipe here at home is bottarga and bucatini pasta (known in Italy as pasta e bottarga). I feel that a thick, firm pasta like bucatini perfectly compliments the chewy rich flavor of the bottarga. If you don’t have any roasted garlic cloves on hand, gently sauté your sliced fresh garlic cloves in olive oil until they are soft, but not browned.

PASTA E BOTTARGA
1 pound box of bucatini (or thick spaghetti)
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
3 roasted garlic cloves, thinly sliced or minced
Bottarga (about a 1-inch cube each)
Crushed red pepper, optional
Salt & pepper to taste

Cook the bucatini in a large pot of boiling water until al dente. Drain, reserving ½ cup of the pasta cooking water.

While the pasta is cooking, in a large skillet heat the olive oil and roasted garlic slowly over low heat. Put the drained bucatini into the skillet and toss to coat all the pasta. Add a little drizzle of the reserved pasta water and continue stirring and tossing. This will help to make a creamier, emulsified sauce.

Mound each serving into a warm shallow pasta bowl and top with some thin shavings of bottarga.

If you would rather have a spicier dish, add a pinch of crushed red pepper flakes. Serve immediately.