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Cape Gooseberries

by JANE WORTHINGTON-ROTH

Farmers Markets are fun places to shop for both the familiar and the exotic. At this time of year it’s reassuring to know that there will be baskets of sweet corn freshly picked that morning and that there will be enough zucchini available to satisfy any ratatouille lover. Along with the usual greens and veggies this week, I splurged on some blackberries to freeze and augment my supply of wild blackberries that grow along our hedgerow. I was surprised to see that the market also had Cape Gooseberries available. They go by many names including goldenberry and physalis, and were marked as “ground cherries” at the market. They are easily identifiable by their calyx or papery covering which shows their relation to tomatillos and Chinese lantern plants.

Oddly enough, cape gooseberries are not related to gooseberries and didn’t originate near any cape. They can be traced to the Incas in South America and are now cultivated across the world and grow wild in many warmer climates. They can be eaten raw, chopped into an exotic fruit salad or made into jams, chutneys, breads or even added to a clafoutis in place of cherries.

I think one of their most beautiful names is the French amour en cage (“love in a cage”). The easiest recipe to exemplify this love in a cage is to gently pull back the papery husk and twist to use as a handle. Dip the cape gooseberry in melted chocolate as is often done with strawberries. Let them harden in the fridge and serve as an easy but glamorous dessert!

Cape gooseberries’ flavor is sweet and slightly tart. They remind me of cranberries and I find they work as a great substitute in rustic cranberry recipes. I decided to use my cape gooseberries to make some relish that would serve as a delicious summer condiment for grilled fish or poultry.

CAPE GOOSEBERRY RELISH

1½ cups cape gooseberries (papery outer covering removed), coarsely chopped
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
½ cup chopped red onion or sweet Vidalia onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar (or another mild vinegar such as rice wine vinegar)
1 teaspoon sugar (optional)

In a small saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and garlic and cook over low heat until the vegetables are soft, but not browned.

Add the vinegar and sugar (if using). Continue heating until the sugar has dissolved. Add the cape gooseberries and stir to make sure they’re all coated. Store the relish in the fridge.

If you enjoy spicy relishes, add a half teaspoon of minced hot red chili pepper or a quarter teaspoon of crushed red pepper flakes.

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