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Cherry Gazpacho

Andalusian Style

by LEON BOUTEILLER

“Life is Just a Bowl of Cherries”, is a song written by Ray Henderson and Lew Brown around 1930. It was meant to convey life is full of pleasure and enjoyment. These days the expression is likely in a moment of frustration, a comment to an adverse situation. Too bad because cherries are a wonderful thing. We only enjoy them for a relatively short time each summer. Like many fruits and vegetables are available year round but the good stuff is only found this time of year.

I enjoy eating them out of hand or tossed in a bowl of mixed fruits and berries to enjoy with a an alfresco breakfast on the porch or in the evening in place of dessert. Yes of course I enjoy a cherry pie or cobbler and maybe a Black Forest cake if I’m feeling ambitious. But there are many other ways to utilize this stone fruit. The “stone” refers to the pit in the cherry.

There are sour cherries which are most usually used in cooking but I am talking about the sweet varieties like Bing available now. I cook with them and if a little tartness is required, I just add a squeeze of lemon juice.

Today I offer a nice cold soup. Cherry gazpacho is a popular dish in Spain. Yes, gazpacho is most often seen as a tomato based cold soup, puréed with a variety of vegetables and seasonings. I propose the ubiquitous V8 is gazpacho in a can. But in the Andalusian region of Spain, cherries get thrown into the mix for a delicious change of pace.

I researched half a dozen recipes to develop this one. The only thing I altered was to increase the proportion of cherries. All those recipes used fresh ripe tomatoes as a base; I did not deviate from that. All of the authentic recipes also called for puréeing the soup to a smooth consistency but I enjoy a little rougher version, the texture of a loose salsa. If you would rather the smooth version, follow this recipe, purée until smooth and pass the soup through a strainer discarding the pulp. Some recipes call for an additional garnish, a crumbly fresh cheese such as Farmer’s or Queso Fresco. I happened to have some Feta on hand.

Removing the pit from the cherries can be tedious. There are hand held devices where one loads a cherry, gives it a squeeze and a prong pushes the pit. I find this to be too slow. I place the cherry on a hard surface, like a cutting board, and press the cherry with my thumb. This removes the pit easily. A bit messy but quicker for sure. Just wear an apron and be sure that anything you wouldn’t want stained is out of the way.

So, without further explanation, here is my recipe for a tasty and refreshing cherry gazpacho.

ANDALUSIAN STYLE CHERRY GAZPACHO
Makes about two Quarts

Ingredients:

  • 1 1/2 pounds ripe tomatoes, cored and roughly chopped

  • 1 pound sweet cherries, such as Bing, pitted

  • 1 red bell pepper, cored and seeded and roughly chopped

  • 1 Serrano or Jalapeño pepper, cored and chopped

  • 8 ounces hot house cucumber, no need to peel, roughly chopped, or a garden cucumber peeled and seeded and chopped

  • 1/2 of a medium red onion, peeled and chopped

  • 1 or 2 garlic cloves, crushed and minced

  • 2 slices crustless white bread or brioche, cubed

  • 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

  • 1/2 cup cold water

  • 1/4 cup sherry vinegar

  • salt and pepper to taste

  • shredded basil leaves for garnish

  • crumbled fresh cheese such as Feta, Farmers, Ricotta Salata, or Queso Fresco (optional)

Method:

  • place all of the ingredients except the basil, cheese and salt and pepper in a bowl and toss to combine

  • let the mixture rest for a few minutes

  • ladle the mixture, by batches, into the carafe of a blender and pulse a few times until it becomes a pourable, but somewhat rough blend. Do not fill the carafe all the way, half full or so will be much easier to process

  • pour each batch into another bowl or pitcher large enough to accommodate the full recipe

  • once all of the mixture has been processed and in one container, season with a little salt and a few grinds of black pepper. It’s better to under salt so that the freshness of the gazpacho is not muddled

  • refrigerate the soup for at least two hours before serving

For Service:

  • ladle into chilled serving bowls and garnish with a tablespoon or so of the cheese, if using, and a few shreds of the basil

This is a great appetizer and another delicious way to enjoy the fresh crop of cherries that are available now at a reasonable price. If you prefer a smooth gazpacho just purée for a little longer and pass it through a fine sieve. And if you want gluten free, just eliminate the bread.

Enjoy!

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