Eggnog

What would the holiday season be without eggnog? The custardy emulsion flavored with cinnamon and nutmeg and often laced with liquor holds the center spot on many holiday tables. Family recipes are extremely varied, some asserting that the eggs be beaten and never cooked, others insisting that the eggs must always be cooked and never eaten raw. Larousse Gastronomique has the strangest recipe I’ve ever seen for what they refer to as “lait de poule” (chicken milk). It says to beat an egg yolk with a tablespoon of sugar, add a glass of hot milk and some brandy. That’s about as simple as it gets!

What’s nice about eggnog is that it can be enjoyed either warm or cold, laced with alcohol or served plain, and any leftovers make the most delicious French toast. Although many grocers carry seasonal cartons of premade eggnog, once you’ve tasted the real homemade version, you’ll never get store-bought again!

My recipe uses only the yolks of the eggs and is cooked. If you want to serve it as a warm toddy, serve it immediately. If you prefer it chilled, you can store it in the fridge for up to a week. Either way, a dollop of whipped cream on top and an extra sprinkle of cinnamon or crushed candy canes adds the perfect finishing touch.

EGGNOG
6 egg yolks
½ cup granulated sugar
2 cups milk
1 cup heavy (whipping) cream
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
Bourbon or rum (optional)
Whipped cream for serving (optional)
Special equipment: Whisk

In a large, heat-proof bowl, beat the egg yolks with the sugar until light and creamy. Set aside.

In a medium saucepan, heat the milk, cream, nutmeg, cinnamon and vanilla extract until simmering. Remove from the heat.

Use a ladle to carefully add the milk to the eggs – tempering them slowly so they don’t curdle. I find the best way to do this is to let each ladleful of hot milk run down the side of the bowl, cooling it a bit before reaching the eggs. Don’t rush the process. As you pour in each ladleful, whisk continuously so it’s fully incorporated before adding more.

Pour the egg-milk combination back into your saucepan. Cook on low heat for a minute-and-a-half, whisking continuously, to slightly thicken the eggnog without scrambling the eggs. If you’re storing the eggnog in the refrigerator, it will continue to thicken as it cools.

To serve, add a shot of bourbon or rum, top with a dollop of whipped cream and a sprinkle of cinnamon or nutmeg.

Happy holidays!