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Fondue

by JANE WORTHINGTON-ROTH

This season has been wonderful for those who enjoy outdoor winter activities. Whether skiing, snowboarding, cross-country skiing or sledding down a mountainside the frequent snowfalls and abundant sunshine have inspired us to spend time outside, especially in the beautiful Berkshires. That said, it’s equally as wonderful to head back inside for a steaming cup of cocoa or a warm meal.

Although it’s rarely seen on a menu here in New England, those who have spent time in the Alps may have warmed up apres-ski with a dinner of fondue. I find it remarkable that a simple dinner of bread and cheese can be so filling but, believe me, it is! Fondue parties were all the rage in the 1950s and 60’s and a fondue pot was often the gift of choice for newlyweds. A classic fondue set with a set of 8 different-colored long handled forks and warming stand is actually on display at the National Museum of American History. The fondue fad returned in the 1990s and again around 2010.

Winter is a great time to dig out your old fondue set but you don’t need one to enjoy the recipe. A double-boiler, bain marie or any small pot that can be kept warm over a stand with a sterno or a tealight would work although inexpensive fondue pots can be purchased online. You might think that they would be a single-usage item but they actually come in handy for keeping soup or appetizers warm, can function as a small deep-fryer and can even help your home smell good if you use it to simmer water with a little vanilla extract.

The term fondue comes from the French verb “fondre” which means to melt. This Swiss specialty has many regional variations. Although the most familiar is the “fondue savoyarde” mixture of Swiss cheese, white wine and kirsch into which people dip chunks of bread. Other delicious options are “fondue bourguignonne” where thinly sliced meat is cooked in hot oil (similar to a Mongolian hot pot), and “fondue normande” made with Camembert and Calvados. And we certainly can’t forget about chocolate fondue!

Because the main ingredient in the fondue recipe is cheese, it’s essential that you buy the highest quality chunk of cheese. Don’t be tempted to buy prepackaged sliced or shredded “Swiss cheese” as it won’t melt into a velvety smooth fondue and will offer little flavor to your dish. Packages of shredded cheese always contain an “anti-caking agent” and often Natamycin to prevent mold.

FONDUE

1 pound Alpine-style cheese
(e.g. any combination of Emmenthaler, Gruyère, Raclette, Fontina or Beaufort)
1½ cups dry white wine, plus 1 tablespoon, divided
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon Kirsch
Large cubes of crusty French bread
Gherkin pickles and picked onions, for serving
Special equipment: fondue set or small pot that can be set on a tea warmer and long- handle forks for dipping

Coarsely grate your cheese(s) into a small bowl. Set aside.

Bring the 1½ cups of wine to a simmer in a small pot or let it heat up in the fondue pot. When moderately warm, stir in the cheese.

Mix the 1 tablespoon of white wine with the cornstarch and stir into the fondue. The cornstarch will thicken the fondue and help to prevent the cheese from separating.

Just before serving, stir in the Kirsch. Note: if you don’t have any Kirsch (which is a clear brandy distilled from black morello cherries), you could substitute Grand Marnier or Cointreau. Do not use Crème de Kirsch which is a sweet cherry liquor.

Keep the pot warm as you enjoy dipping cubes of bread into the fondue, periodically snacking on some gherkins or pickled onions. For a more substantial meal, you can also offer sliced meat charcuterie or a green salad on the side.

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