Fruit and Berry Pudding

by LEON BOUTEILLER

I was confronted with an over abundance of berries and fruit left over from a week, less busy than expected, in a restaurant kitchen. With all this produce staring me in the face, the dilemma of what to do with it before it became overripe or spoiled set me in search of an answer. Throwing it in the freezer puts off the inevitable, a procrastination. I think maybe a trifle and in my research I came across a related fruit-based concoction with a history of English heritage, the Summer Pudding. It consists of cooked fruit, usually berries, bread instead of a sweet cake and usually served with cream or Crème Anglaise.

In a typical assembly bread is used to line a bowl, cooked sweetened berries fill the center and it is topped with a layer of bread. Then it’s weighted down and refrigerated for a time, turned out for presentation and serving. Often recipes call for buttering the bread slices as they are placed in the mold; I have found this inhibits the ability of the fruit juices to permeate the bread. If the fruit filling is not hot enough during assembly the butter remains intact and after refrigeration gives a greasy feel to the bite.

Any number of vessels can be used to assemble the pudding but I find the bowl is the least friendly. The bread slices need to be cut just so, in triangles, to fit the bowl and seal the fruit. A flat bottomed soufflé dish or loaf pan are easier and provide a better result. Also layering the bread and the filling allows it to hold together better.

The choice of bread is critical. Whole grain, seeded or chewy textured breads do not give the best texture. Simple, soft sandwich breads are best though you can use a light whole wheat if you’re adamant about not using white. Crusts should be removed for the best texture and appearance. My choice for bread would be a potato bread like Martin’s, a brioche or challah type. I would avoid the braided ones because it is difficult to remove the crusts.

The choice of fruit can be most any berry or soft fruit such as peaches. I think that a mix of fruit and berries works best partly because the pectin from the stone fruits helps the dessert hold together. This pudding begs for a creamy accompaniment. Plain heavy cream works but whipped cream, vanilla ice cream or Crème Anglaise are terrific!

STONE FRUIT & THORN BERRY SUMMER PUDDING

Ingredients:

  • 1 loaf soft sandwich bread, crusts removed and saved for another purpose

  • 2 1/2 pounds mixed blackberries, raspberries, peaches and or plums

  • 3/4 cup sugar, more or less depending on the sweetness of the fruits

  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2 inch pieces

  • 1 teaspoon ground ginger

  • 1 teaspoon cornstarch

  • 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

-1/2 teaspoon fine lemon zest

  • 1/4 teaspoon salt

Method:

  • you will need a 2 1/2 quart soufflé dish or similarly sized vessel, a large loaf pan or casserole dish and plastic wrap

  • put the fruits and berries in a suitable sauce pan on medium heat. Add the sugar, spices, cornstarch, salt and zest. Give it a stir, bring to a simmer and cook until the heaviest pieces are tender. Add the butter and blend with an immersion (stick) blender until fairly smooth. If using a tabletop blender take care not to blow the top off with the hot liquid.

  • while the filling is cooking, line the mold with plastic wrap, leave an over hang of a couple inches. Spraying the mold with nonstick spray first will help to hold the wrap in place. Then line the mold, sides and bottom with the bread, filling in all the spaces as best you can.

  • when the filling is ready, put 1/3 of it evenly in the mold, then a layer of bread. Repeat with another 1/3 of the filling and a layer of bread. Add the rest of the filling and top with another layer of bread filling in all the spaces. Seal the top with plastic wrap and place a small plate or cardboard circle on top that will fit just inside the rim. Weight it down with something like a large can of tomatoes. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight.

  • any left over fruit sauce can be saved for garnish or served over ice cream

To Serve:

  • remove the plastic wrap, turn upside down on a serving plate. Cut wedges, slices or squares depending on your choice of vessel. Serve with whipped cream, vanilla ice cream or Crème Anglaise.

Fool Proof Crème Anglaise:

  • 1 pint heavy or whipping cream

  • 1/3 cup sugar

  • 3 egg yolks

  • 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch

  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

  • put the sugar and cornstarch in a saucepan and whisk in the cream. Place over medium low heat, stirring occasionally, until it comes to a simmer. Keep an eye on it for it may boil over. Remove from the heat. Place the egg yolks in a blender along with the vanilla. On medium speed, slowly pour the hot cream into the blender and let spin for about 10 seconds. Refrigerate for a few hours and it’s ready to pour.

This is a great recipe to use up extra fruit and berries during this time of local abundance. Don’t have blackberries or raspberries? Use blueberries, strawberries, currants or even frozen berries as long as they are not already sugared.

Have fun with it and feel free to make substitutions, it’s a forgiving recipe. Enjoy!

Leon G. Bouteiller was born and raised in Northwest Connecticut. He has held several jobs as chef in the community and is presently the Executive Working Pastry Chef at The Fife ‘n Drum in Kent. He is married to Patrice and lives in Cornwall with a Greater Swiss Mountain Dog named Banjo and two rescue cats named Ricky and Lucy.

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