Hoppin' John

by LEON BOUTEILLER

Hoppin’ John is a classic low country Southern dish originating in the Gullah communities along the coast of the Carolinas. It has become a dish to ring in the new year to assure good fortune in the year ahead. It is a stew, primarily composed of black-eyed peas with smoked pork and rice. Other ingredients are the holy trinity of Southern cuisine; onion, celery and bell pepper with thyme, black pepper and cayenne. It is cooked low and slow, served with rice, collard greens and cornbread. It can also be served as a side dish to a main course protein, usually pork.

Black-eyed peas are synonymous with the dish. Early recipes from the 1800’s call for cow peas, field peas or red peas, all cousins of black-eyed peas. It is curious that these are technically beans, not peas. Why they are called peas is unclear. The only reference I could find is that the French name of dried peas is “pois pigeons.”

The rice is required in Hoppin’ John, often served with black-eyed pea stew served on top. In some households the rice is stirred into the stew along with the braised collard greens. One can use greens such as turnip, kale or cabbage.

The rice of choice is Carolina Gold, the rice most commonly grown in the low country. This particular strain almost became extinct after the hurricane of 1911. The rice fields were flooded with seawater and the soil tainted. In the last few decades this type has been salvaged by a handful of dedicated farmers. Carolina Gold has its own particular taste which is nuttier and more earthy than most rice found at the supermarket.

There are many variations on the Hoppin’ John theme. Most earlier recipes call for ham hock or a bone from a smoked ham; good smoky bacon, andouille or chorizo are good substitutes. Dried black-eyed peas are the usual; canned black-eyed peas can speed the process.

HOPPIN’ JOHN
8 to 10 Side Portions | 6 Main Course Servings

Ingredients:

  • 1 pound dry black-eyed peas, sorted, rinsed and soaked for at least 6 hours in cold water

  • 1 large sweet or Spanish onion, chopped

  • 1 large bell pepper, seeded and chopped. Any color will do, but green is traditional

  • 2 stalks celery, chopped

  • 3 cloves garlic, crushed and minced

  • 12 ounces well smoked thick cut bacon cut crosswise into 1/4 inch strips

  • 4 cups strong chicken stock

  • 1 tablespoon butter or olive oil

  • 1 tablespoon Creole or Cajun spice blend

  • 1 teaspoon dry thyme

  • 1 teaspoon black pepper

  • 1 teaspoon salt

  • Thinly sliced scallions for garnish (optional)

  • Cooked Carolina Gold rice to serve. If you can’t find it, any long grain rice will do

  • Cooked greens such as collards, turnip, cabbage or kale to be served on the side

  • Cornbread (optional)

Method:

  • Heat a large braising pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, toss in the cut bacon and cook until rendered

  • Remove the bacon to a paper towel lined plate then drain off all but 2 tablespoons of the rendered fat

  • Lower the heat to medium then add the butter to the pot along with the onions and cook for about 5 minutes until the onions begin to take on some color

  • Add in the peppers, celery and garlic and cook 5 minutes more until the vegetables are becoming soft

  • Add the Creole seasoning, thyme, salt and black pepper and give it a stir

  • Thoroughly drain the black-eyed peas and add to the pot along with the chicken stock. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover the pot and cook for 1 hour

  • Check the black-eyed peas for doneness. They should be tender, but not mushy. If the stew is too liquidy, turn the heat to medium and cook, uncovered for another half hour or so until the juice is syrupy and sauce-like. Check the seasoning for salt

  • Stir in the bacon and serve over top of the rice with cooked greens and cornbread on the side

  • A good shower of sliced scallions makes a nice addition

  • If using canned black-eyed peas, use 4 fifteen ounce cans drained, reduce the stock by half as well as the cooking time

A truly delicious way to begin the new year; a good dish to have in your repertoire any time of year. Leftovers are referred to as “Skippin’ Jenny” to express frugality. The name of “Hoppin’ John” has several origin stories but none are certain. The name most likely comes from a man by the name of John who sold rice and beans on the street somewhere along the Carolina coast.

Have a wonderful and healthy new year filled with good fortune.

Enjoy!

Leon G Bouteiller was born and raised in Northwest Connecticut. He has held several jobs as chef in the community. He is now retired and living in Cornwall with his wife Patrice and a love of the outdoors. They are joined by their pets, a Greater Swiss Mountain Dog named Banjo and two rescue cats called Ricky and Lucy.

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