Lamb Shank Tagine

To flip from last week when I featured a vegetarian dish, this week I’ll delve into a braised lamb recipe that is one of my favorites. It is so comforting with its combination of warm spices and richness. It is a festive meal for this time of year; the long slow cooking warms the home and the soul. The dish is lamb tagine, also spelled tajine, and in this recipe lamb shanks. Warm aromatic spices fill the kitchen with a hint of savory sweetness along with the heady aroma of the simmering lamb.

This braised lamb recipe reflects the name of the two piece ceramic vessel in which it is traditionally cooked. Originally the earthenware pot was made of red clay from in and around Morocco. It is a common cooking vessel in the Middle East and North Africa. This cooking pot is a shallow circular bottom with low sides and a tall cone or dome shaped cover that fits snugly over the base. Some modern designs enhance the original with a metal base so that it may be used on the stovetop. The design enables the vapors to return to the stew, to concentrate flavors and keep the braise moist. The top of the cone usually has a small cup or basin filled with cold water to hasten the condensation of steam and send it back to the bottom. The low sides of the bottom half facilitate traditional family style dining; the bowl is set in the middle of the table and diners reach with the thumb and first two fingers of the right hand.

The recipes varies from region to region and, in Tunisian cuisine, the dish can contain eggs and cheese. The stew or braise can be prepared with many different regional combinations of spices. Some call for clarified butter and others for olive oil. Some require preserved lemon and others olives. All appear to include some dried fruit (like apricots) and a broad swath of seasonings. I have adapted several recipes in combination to appeal to my taste and availability of ingredients. I like using lamb shanks as they are easily portioned one per diner although many recipes call for lamb shoulder cut into stew-sized cubes.

I use an antique cast iron Dutch oven I inherited from my mother. It is a perfect substitute for a traditional tagine vessel and it will slow cook in a low oven rather than on the stovetop where it runs the risk of being scorched. Some recipes call for saffron, pricey but worth the added dimension of flavor. I put it in the couscous for it is visually effective and a more noticeable flavor. I also add some Madeira wine for it blends with the spices.

Ingredients:

• 4 lamb shanks, hind if possible, about 3 pounds

• 1 medium onion, 1/2 inch dice

• 1 cup fennel bulb, 1/2 inch dice

• 1/2 cup carrot, 1/4 inch dice

• 3 or 4 garlic cloves crushed and finely minced

• 3 tablespoons good olive oil

• 1 tablespoon tomato paste

• 1 tablespoon honey

• 1 tablespoon all purpose flour or rice flour

• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin

• 1 teaspoon ground ginger

• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

• 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

• 3 cinnamon sticks

• 2 1/2 cups chicken stock

• 1/2 cup Madeira wine, optional and not traditional

• 1 cup dried apricots, rough chopped. Dry cherries, raisins or currants can be substituted

• 1/2 cup sliced or slivered almonds, toasted

• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro or parsley

• a few gratings of lemon zest

Method:

• heat the olive oil in a Dutch oven or a range proof tagine with a metal bottom

• season the shanks with salt and pepper, then brown on all sides in the pot

• remove the shanks to the side, then add the chopped vegetables and cook until the onion has taken on some color

• add in the flour, tomato paste and spices, stir to combine, then add the honey and garlic

• stir in the stock and wine if using. If no wine, add another 1/2 cup of stock

• submerge the lamb shanks in the liquid and bring to a simmer, then put the top on the pot and put it in a 300F degree oven for about 2 hours, or until the meat is tender, but just before falling off the bone. Remove the cinnamon sticks before serving

• serve with traditional cous cous that has had a few threads of saffron added to the cooking liquid. Sprinkle each serving with some of the almonds, a few gratings of lemon zest and some chopped parsley or cilantro

I think you’ll find this recipe one to keep. It is delicious and simple to cook; it just needs a bit of time. There are opportunities for substitutions to make it your own but this is a good template to start. Enjoy!