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New Energy in Cornwall

by KATHRYN BOUGHTON

Rumble across the covered bridge into tiny West Cornwall and it will seem a quiet little burg. You could easily pass it by and hardly notice the cluster of businesses there. But slow down, look closer and you will discover what a treasure trove it is.

From traditional hand-crafted furniture to the latest in 21st-century recreational technology (electric bikes, anyone?) to some of the finest food in the area, this surprising little enclave has it all.

West Cornwall has experienced a resurgence in the last couple of years, thanks to the efforts of the West Cornwall Development Group. Staples such as Ian Ingersoll’s furniture business and Todd Piker’s pottery have thrived for decades and anchor the business community while other businesses have expanded the offerings.

Most recently, Frank., the eponymous restaurant opened by Frank Way at 34 Lower River Road, has elated local diners and visitors alike, all of whom have discovered the allure of a summertime meal on the spacious deck overlooking the Housatonic River.

Way, who was formerly in advertising, moved permanently to Western Connecticut after tiring of the urban rat race. Looking for a new adventure, he turned to his avocation: cooking. He terms his cuisine “elevated home cooking”—simple, nourishing food served in a homey setting.

By design he has kept his menu very simple relying on the rich flavors of locally sourced, organic fare to enhance his dishes.

The restaurant (www.frankfoodco.com, 860-248-3250) is open for brunch and dinner, Thursday through Sunday.

Frank. is the new kid on the block but RSVP, located at 8 Railroad Street (860-672-7787), continues a dining tradition stretching back three decades. If you decide at the last minute that you would like to dine there—forget about it. Reservations are needed well in advance for this celebrated boutique restaurant with its prix-fixe menu.

The restaurant, which seats only a handful of patrons at any given meal, creates the ambiance of a dinner party with French ex-pat chef Guy Birster creating authentic, freshly prepared bistro cuisine in an open kitchen only feet from the diners. Guests are greeted and food delivered by co-owner Charles Cilona.

Farmers began arriving in Cornwall in the mid-18th century and began abandoning its rocky hills by the mid-19th. But as dairy farming faded a new agricultural base took hold. Today organic produce is grown throughout the region.

Cornwall early embraced this movement and weekly the original Farmer’s Market is held Saturday, 10 AM-1 PM, under tents at 413 Sharon-Goshen Road. The Cornwall Co-Op Farm Market gets underway, also on Saturday, across from the Cornwall Town Hall on Pine Street. But now there is a third outlet at The Local, a collective market that’s offerings include coffee, soaps, syrup, breads, clothing, accessories and products from local farms.

The Local, originally an indoor farmers market, is open Fridays, 11 AM-4 PM, and Saturdays, 11 AM-5 PM. All profits flow back to the farmers, artists, cooks and craftspeople who work and thrive in Cornwall. (thecornwalllocalct.com; 860-248-3201)

Immediately adjacent to The Local, one finds The Union, a community place to work created in partnership with the Hughes Library. This smart, well-furnished space can be used to host meetings and gatherings, for freelance work or by the self-employed, all free of charge. Wifi is available. (thecornwallunion.com).

Shopping for gifts can be a hoot in West Cornwall at the Wish House, a boutique offering an array of classic as well as quirky items. The Wish House is celebrating its 25th anniversary July 30th during Cornwall Day with a summer clothing sale and music by the Ballyhack School Boys from 3-6 PM.

An artist reception for Emily Waters will be held in the Souterrain Gallery, featuring nibbles by Vicky Zhang. (www.wishhouse.com; 860-672-2969)

Over at Michael Trapp’s store, 7 River Road, one can find anything from vintage furniture and antique decorative items to garden and architectural features. The retail shop is open Saturdays and Sundays, 11 AM-5 PM, and during the week by appointment; 860-672-6098, alyssa@michaeltrapp.com.

Moving from the past perfect to the future tense, take a look at familiar recreational equipment that is now pushing the boundaries of technology. At the Covered Bridge Electric Bike Shop, 421 Sharon-Goshen Turnpike, Robert Ensign stands ready to introduce customers of all ages to the pleasures of e-biking. Rentals start at $25 for an hour and range up to $85 for a full day. (coveredbridgeebike.com; 860-248-3010)

Up the street at 406 Sharon-Goshen Turnpike, 3 Guys Ski and Ride takes a four-season approach to recreation offering rentals (and sales when inventories allow) of standard and electric bikes. The new shop also carries skateboards, skis, boots, hiking and trail-running shoes and accessories. Check them out on Facebook.

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