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Tinned

by JANE WORTHINGTON-ROTH

When you’re invited to a friend’s for dinner, I don’t think you’d ever consider bringing a can of sardines as a hostess gift, a can of tuna or even some tasty anchovies. Folks might think you were nuts if you did that.

But it’s a cultural thing… In countries like Spain, Portugal and France to name a few, “tinned fish” are considered adored delicacies. I have to admit, calling them “tinned” rather than “canned” does add a certain je ne sais quoi and ambiance to what many consider a plebeian dish. Around the holidays ethnic stores setup beautiful displays with a wide variety of tinned delights including tuna, salmon, sardines, mackerel, herring and anchovies. Most of the selections are oily fish which have an abundance of heart healthy Omega 3 fatty acids and, since they’re canned, can be easily stored.

Tinned fish have come a long way since the rectangular cans of sardines we remember with the little key on the side that you precariously used to open it. Many of the newer tins are wrapped in beautiful artistically designed paper - which requires no additional wrapping to give as a gift.

Friends of mine experienced this new culinary trend in Nice, France, when having lunch in a nice little bistro off the iconic Promenade des Anglais. They were served their salads with a tin of fish on the side… still in the tin … to be opened by them. To serve tinned fish warm simply let it sit in a bowl of hot water for a while before opening.

One of my favorite places to look for inspiration on using different types of tinned fish is Bart Van Olphen’s Tinned Fish Cookbook. His recipes range from items like Mackerel and Potato Frittata to Thai Tuna Red Curry and even a Salmon Pizza.

In the recipe below, Van Olphen makes a tabbouleh with quinoa rather than the usual bulgur wheat and tops it with succulent sardines in olive oil.

QUINOA TABBOULEH with SARDINES
Serves 2

Heaping 1/2 cup quinoa
2 bunches parsley, finely chopped
1/4 bunch mint, leaves only chopped
1 scallion, finely chopped
1/2 jalapeño, finely chopped
2 cups cherry tomatoes, seeded and diced (a few quartered)
Zest and juice of 2 lemons
Salt and pepper, to taste
Extra virgin olive oil
Two 4.2 ounce tins of sardines in olive oil, drained

Cook the quinoa according to package directions. Set aside and let cool.

Put the parsley, mint, scallion, jalapeño and diced tomato into a large bowl and stir in the cooked quinoa. Add the lemon zest and juice, season with salt and pepper and make the tabbouleh extra creamy with a generous splash of olive oil.

Top the tabbouleh with the sardine fillets and the quartered tomatoes and serve.

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